The First School Week

Shanghai, October 15 to 19, 2007 (Monday to Friday)

Sorry for the belated update…I can’t actually access my published blog directly…I can get to the “Add Posts” page, but can’t actually SEE the published posts. So for those of you used to my obsessively impeccably proofread and formatted output…my deepest apologies. I’ll proof everything when I am back home. As a sidebar, I suspect my carefully written post on a certain Central American country with awesome coffee was not carefully written enough, and my observations about the gala are causing access issues for me. I hope you guys are able to see everything ok.

Also, my Internet access is spotty as well. I’ve been trying to piggyback on wifi for the last week, and it just aint cutting it. So I bit the bullet and paid for it.

I am combining School Week #1 into one super large post…and you’ll see why below.

School. Is. Hard. Goodness, I thought I would just coast merrily along and goof off during class, mebbe learn a few cuss words. Not so much, my friends. (Though I am still hopeful about the cussing.) The work ethic of this great nation is what will lead to their world domination. That, and sheer numbers.

On Orientation Day, I cavalierly took a placement test that put me at the mid-range level…and I think I would have probably been able to coast that class. However, one of my classmates, an Italian girl (who probably knows more Chinese than me!) suggested that we try our hand at the next higher level, so I decided to give it a go. The more advanced class is more suitable for me, I will begrudgingly admit. It is challenging; and I am definitely learning.

The advanced class takes place in the afternoon, from 1pm to 5pm. While I was initially ecstatic that I would be able to sleep in every morning, I realized this would interfere with sightseeing. I would need to plan sightseeing in small 3-hour jaunts.

The advanced class is broken into two sessions that are taught by two teachers. For the sake of privacy, let’s call them Good Cop and Bad Cop. Good Cop is a sweet, happy-go-lucky, chatty woman, probably my age or younger, and our sessions are like extended gossipy girl talks, with some new vocabulary and grammar lessons thrown in. And then there’s Bad Cop…she’s a taskmaster…A spunky, stern dragon lady, probably a couple years younger than myself, who pounces on you immediately when she senses uncertainty or inattention. She’s the one who assigns the lengthy homework assignments, and who drills and tests you incessantly. The kicker? She looks uncannily like my Mom when she was young! I used my Mom’s wedding photo for a high school drawing class assignment way back when, so I spent a good three weeks studying and trying to recreate in charcoal pencil my Mom’s gorgeous, young face. I try not to gawk at Bad Cop during class, but the resemblance is really freaking me out. Bad Cop’s resemblance to my Mom probably explains my desire to not incur her wrath by being a diligent student. Doesn’t take a psychologist to figure that one out…

Intellectually, I know the school and teachers really can’t do anything to me if I don’t work at my lessons or go to class. I don’t need the grade for my transcript or anything like that (I graduated already, dammit!). I guess it’s my own stoopid work ethic that has me trying so hard. (That and Dragon Lady Bad Cop.) I haven’t worked this hard at Chinese, well, ever. I confess I have never really had to use a Chinese dictionary before…even during my grad school Chinese course. For the coursework here, however, I have dog-eared and thumbed through my pristine dictionary to the point of war-torn shabbiness. Plus, as I paid a pretty penny for these personalized language classes, I was determined to get my money’s worth.

So, this first week, marred by my lingering jet lag and jacked up sleep cycle, I found myself falling into a weekday pattern of breakfast buffet between 8:30 and 9am, short sightseeing jaunts or grueling homework until noon, a quickie lunch, and then school from 1pm to 5pm. After school, I would pick up dinner at my second home, Carrefoure’s prepared foods section, or at the “Big Eats Era” food court in the same building as Carrefoure (with street food-esque snacks, along with Asian fast food, such as Taiwanese, Singaporean, Shanghaiese, Cantonese, Indian, Malaysian, Japanese, etc.). The complex also has a fabulous bakery, called Bread Talk, a Pizza Hut, Mickey D’s, a gelato place, and an Italian café. I am trying to live by the guideline of “no Western fast food” during my time in China, and am proud to report that to date, I am successful. We’ll see how long before I start craving Chicken McNuggets. Gosh, I think I kinda want some now…I will have to satisfy my fried bits craving by going to the Tempura Bar at Carrefoure. Yes, they have a whole circular case filled with fried tempura bits. I think I had a fried-gasm right then and there. By the way, have I waxed poetic about how cheap food is here yet? Everyday eats are so affordable. You can eat very well here for very little, couple of bucks US. And I’ve been going to pretty clean, almost yuppie places…I haven’t been going to open air street markets for food. Yet. Of course, if you want ambience, well, you’re gonna have to pay for it. I’ve marked a few super nice places I want to go to, mainly for the décor and ambience. For the most part, everyday common meals are super cheap. Special occasion swanky places are nearly on par with US prices, probably slightly less. But back to my daily Week #1 routine. After dinner, it’s a leisurely walk back to my hotel, enlivened by the dodging of maniac bikes and scooters, and wayward cars at crosswalks. Back at my hotel, and into my freshly cleaned room, sparkling bathroom, and freshly made bed. A gal can get used to this. Then homework, reading, writing or TV (you know I need my TV, any TV…even HBO Asia or TVB8 in Mandarin) before falling asleep.

I didn’t make too many jaunts my first week…Aside from my lingering jet lagginess, I occupied myself with getting situated with Shanghai life, primarily getting around. The area where my hotel and school is located is the Changning District (also known to some as the Hongqiao District), which is a good 20 to 30 minutes by car or metro from Shanghai’s city center. Changning is quite self-sufficient, with a nice mix of restaurants, shopping, and amenities, and I could probably be quite happy never leaving the area. However, to sightsee, I was gonna have to map out how to get around.

I located the nearest metro station, which is a 30-minute walk, or 10-minute bus/cab ride away. Sidebar: The metro is fast and cheap. Buses are also cheap. Taxis are relatively cheap, depending on where, when and how far. However, taking ground transportation also runs the risk of traffic jams. I like the metro, because it is climate-controlled, and the travel is smooth and consistent. Buses and taxis are a little less predictable, and depending on the driver, could be one hell of a ride.

I bought a transportation card, which you can use on the metro and the bus. You charge it with money at the metro station, and swipe it over card readers when you enter and exit the metro. On buses, you tell the attendant (there is a driver, and a ticketing attendant near the rear of the bus) where you are going, and she (it’s usually a she) zaps the amount accordingly with a handheld scanner. You can also pay cash to the attendant. I can’t imagine doing what these bus attendants do all day. Passengers get on the bus, and they may or may not come to you to pay. I have seen passengers get on, spy a seat and nab it, forcing the attendant to come to them for payment. Imagine having to do this while the bus is moving erratically.

Most metro and bus rides are about 50 cents, though if you’re traveling a longer distance, it can be twice that. Cab rides have a base fare of $1 to $2, plus additional for distance and wait times. Yet another option, which I will NOT be partaking in, is the motorbike cab – basically dudes on motorbikes with an extra helmet and no meter. You tell them where you need to go, they quote a price, and if acceptable, you hop on. Aside from the fact that these guys are unlicensed, I still wouldn’t hop on one of these bikes because, frankly, the thought of zipping crazily along in the wild west, anything goes environment that are Shanghai streets, protected only by fervent prayer and a flimsy helmet, scares the bejeezus out of me. These motorbike cabs like to hang out by metro entrances, where they expect people who are running late, and cannot flag a cab, will be their target customers.

The nearest metro station to me, Lou Shan Guan Station, is newly built; so new that the exterior and surrounding buildings are still under construction. The “sidewalks” are pending completion, so they are basically dirt and some shoddy concrete bits. They are still working on the exterior of the station. First time I spied the station, I actually passed it by thinking that it couldn’t possibly be a) it; b) operable; and c) safe. Well, kiddies, don’t judge a book by its cover, nor a metro station by the rubble surrounding it. I imagine the station and the surrounding shopping complex will be fantastic when it’s done….probably in a month or so. They are hard at work at another station that would only be 15 minutes by foot away from where I’m staying…however, that station won’t be done until December. Oh well. I don’t mind the walking. The weather here is pleasant (though still too humid for my taste), I would say 70 degrees average during the day. Armed with an iPod, and time, I can walk for miles. Time is a problem, though: I don’t like the time constraint that my afternoon class puts on me, so I will try to wake up earlier and start my morning jaunts earlier. Uh huh.

I visited a couple of major metro station areas my first week; one was Zhong Shan Park Station, which is considered the “main” hub of the Changning District. I went there in search of a cheap cell phone. My beloved Samsung wouldn’t accept the China Mobile SIM card I bought (though I could roam using my AT&T account…for a pretty penny, of course), so I was forced to buy a cheapie travel phone. My school liaison suggested I try a couple of huge electronics stores by Zhong Shan Park Station. I am bewildered by the sheer volume of shopping complexes in Shanghai. These structures are huge, just enormous gleaming high-rises filled with stores. It’s enough to bring me to my knees in humility and bring tears of joy to my eyes.

The stores I found had a mind-boggling selection of phones. They weren’t especially cheap, though…I would say the prices were about the same as in the US, though they certainly had a much greater selection. And no activation fee, no contract, no tax. The price you see marked is the price you pay. How refreshing. I decided on a cheap Nokia that was sturdy and serviceable. No sexy iPhone for me.

I also stopped by the Huangpu District, where the city center is located. It contains Nanjing Road, which is a main shopping artery that leads to the famous Shanghai Bund on the east. The Bund is called “Wai Tan” in Chinese, which I always thought was a beach. It’s closer to “waterfront”, as it overlooks the Huangpu River, and the new Pudong District across the water. Pudong houses the tall skyscrapers, the airport and a lot of business buildings. The waterfront on the Pudong side is also dotted with pricey apartment buildings. I didn’t have time to do a whole lot of sightseeing on the Bund or Nanjing Road (yet), though I intend to go back often. This is where I would stay if I were focused on pure tourist pursuits. The liveliness of Nanjing Road reminds me a little of the Las Vegas Strip: the neon signs, yes, but also, the sheer energy. There are so many shops and restaurants there, and these are all set amidst historical buildings with stunning late 20^th Century architecture. I confess that I am utterly enamored with the 1920s-1930s Old Shanghai era, and to be in the midst of these buildings, this area, the Bund, which was the heartbeat of that glamorous era is quite a thrill for me. For my Chinese-Am readers out there, you will totally understand when I say that the theme song to the 1980s TVB series “The Bund” played on loop in my head when I strolled the Bund. I half expected to see Chow Yun Fat (when he was a young wolf) in a tux, overcoat, and white scarf, strut down the Bund….and get gunned down by his evil business partner. His true love sobs uncontrollably, cradling his head in her arms, begging him to not leave her. He sighs twice, croaks out his love, then croaks. End scene. I think. I may need to rewatch it.

But I digress. The main reason for my going to the Huangpu District my first week was that I wanted to buy concert tickets. I just learned that Sammi Cheng, a Canto-Pop singer, was having a comeback concert in Shanghai this Saturday, and I wanted to check it out. If I had bought the tickets earlier, say on Monday or Tuesday, they could have delivered them to me at no extra cost. (Delivered by a maniac on a motorbike, I’m sure). However, I didn’t find out about the concert until Wednesday, so I had to go to the ticket sellers in person. I found the office pretty easily, without needing to take a cab or ask for directions yay me); it’s about 15 minutes from the Nanjing East Road metro station. I saw that they were selling Andy Lau tickets as well, and decided to get a ticket for that Canto-pop show, too. I noticed Beyonce and Linkin Park would be in town while I was here…I dunno if I wanna go. On the one hand, it would be quite a bizarre experience to see a primarily Chinese audience rock out to Beyonce and Linkin Park; on the other hand…I’m not a huge fan of either. And I’d like to try to squeeze in events that I can’t see fairly easily in the US. So we’ll see. I have a little time to decide.

I went with the mid-to-low range tickets; about $35 to $40 for both the Sammi Cheng and Andy Lau concerts. Not a huge fan of both, so I’m cool with so-so tickets. They had tickets as cheap as $10…I can’t even imagine what those are like. The ticket seller took Visa, so I was happy as a clam. I like charging when I can. Amazon points, you know.

Other miscellaneous musings:

I think I will overdose on super cheap Pearl Milk Tea. (60 cents!) I can’t stop myself from getting a cup, or two, or three, every day.

Girls here are so slender!! And the fashions…a lot of sparkly things, studded belts, colorful accessories. I guess if I had their physiques, I would wear hip huggers accented with bold studded colorful belts and tops trimmed in sparkly things. And their shoes! I am barely managing to stay upright on some of these straights in my trusty sneakers…yet I see these ladies in teensy little heels dashing around on uneven, unpaved streets. They got skillz. But back to the skinny issue. I was happy to see a young gal who wasn’t super skinny... in fact, I think she was probably my size. She was on the metro, and dressed in athletic wear. She had a gym bag with a Chinese athletic association emblazoned on it. I assume she’s an athlete. Then a thought crossed my mind: have the unsavory peeps been not messing with me because they think I’m an athlete, due to my, ahem, well…husky? Sturdy?..physique? Maybe they think I’m an athlete…a wrestler?..who can kick their arse? Hahahahahahahaha. Seriously, though, my feeling is that Shanghai is fairly safe. People are focused on making a living honestly, well legally. And there are so many opportunities here, it’s hard not to make a living if you’re willing to work. Of course, if you hang out in unsavory places, then the probability of unsavory things happening increases. But for the most part, Shanghai is so big, it’s easy to avoid the “bad” areas. And if you do find yourself in a bad area…cabs abound, and you can probably flag one and get the hell out of there quick enough. Or tell ‘em you’re a wrestler.

I seem to be a puzzle to many locals. They sense I’m not one of them, though I clearly am of Chinese descent. I get some curious glances, but not as many as visitors of non-Chinese descent, I’m sure. (Maybe they think I’m a famous wrestler?! I need a cool wrestling name.) What’s funny is I’ve been approached three times by Chinese citizens unfamiliar with the area asking for directions. So I can’t be that foreign-looking. Navigating the streets like a local certainly helps. I jaywalk and take tool-ish traffic etiquette in stride, just like them. My mandarin is improving a little. I am still very uncomfortable speaking with a local outside of the context of school. I have survived in restaurants mostly by pointing to menu entries (I can read ok) and saying in mandarin “I want this”. Seems to work fine.

Tipping. I love that I don’t need to tip, especially since the “double the tax” rule wouldn’t work here since there’s no tax…and then I’d actually have to figure out percentages, and believe you me, I suck at numbers. But back to tipping. Service industry peeps here will not accept tips...cabbies will give you exact change back, and don’t expect anything beyond what the meter says. My bellhop left immediately after leaving the bag in my room. No awkward pause for a tip. I haven’t been to a place that caters primarily to foreigners yet (like a huge Western hotel chain), maybe that will be different. Some larger, more Western restaurants add a 15% service charge, but they say so at the outset.

My hotel. The New Garden Hotel is pleasant. It seems to be a popular place for weddings, as the hotel houses a large lavish restaurant for wedding banquets, then has a dedicated set of rooms for wedding couples. They decorate those doors with the “Double Happiness” signs and lots of pink tulle. I thought that was cute. There are a couple of garden pools or ponds that house some koi and water plants. The ponds are pretty at night. I am not going to take any pictures, since any pics I take will pale in comparison to the gorgeously lit pics on the hotel’s website: http://newgarden.jinjianghotels.com/en_index.asp. There is a lush, bamboo-laden garden that you can easily imagine a cuddly pandie bear or two residing peacefully in. The garden is pleasant to sit in, though as I am not a huge nature person, the crickets and birds start getting to me after a little while. Why can’t you mute ‘em like a spa CD? The hotel also hosts conferences, so there’s a nice mix of Chinese and non-Chinese business people and tourists. There’s also a spa onsite. Though the word “spa” is a little misleading for me. It’s basically a small, serene space that houses a Japanese sauna. They have a relaxation lounge and a juice bar, and can only accommodate six guests every hour. And that’s it. No massages, no facials, no wraps. I need to find a spa that gives massages…that’s on the to-do list…over the next week or so. The hotel also has a beauty salon and a foot massage parlor. I haven’t had a chance to check out the foot massage parlor yet, as they are only open from 1pm to 7pm, basically the same time that I am in class or at dinner. I’ll try to check them out over the weekend. The rooms are okay…think slightly nicer than Best Western. They have a huge hotel staff. I saw more staff then guests the first few days. Breakfast buffet is included, and I guess it’s pretty comprehensive…including continental, western, and Chinese and Asian fare. There’s even a simple salad station, though why anyone would want salad in the morning (or ever, actually) is beyond me. I thought it interesting that they had two dining areas in the breakfast buffet: one with large, round tables, and one with smaller, square tables. The round tables were by the Asian foods station, where they had jook, miso, tofu “flower” (silky tofu in syrup), steam baskets of dim sum, fried rice, and noodles. The square tables were closer to the continental foods and salad station. Cultural eating habits study, much?